Paracord Wrapping a Cane

Decided I wanted to add a paracord wrap to my cane.  After looking a a number of YouTube Videos, I settled on:   I found the Turk’s Head explaination a bit difficult, but found:   So, after a couple of hours of wrapping (minus the Diet Dr. Pepper spill), I achieved:

This has about 28 feet of paracord.  I started with 30 feet, and the entire wrap is one piece.  It took (est.) about 5 feet of cord for each of the Turk’s Heads, and the entire thing covers 10.25 inches on a 1 inch diameter cane.   I’m using the Titan Warrior Cord in Forest Camo.  ( or   I found the cord substantial, but easy to work with.

I wanted to add a wrist strap to free up my hand when I need it when carrying the cane, so back to YouTube, and I found two items to use.  The first was the Cross Knot Zipper pull: and a Sliding Knot Friendship bracelet:   After playing with these a while, I settled on 4 feet of gutted paracord.  I looped the cord through one of loops in the main body of the French Hitching.  A series of Cross Knots to make a strap, and finished the end with the friendship bracelet to let me tighten it up enough to keep the cane from falling over when I need both hands.


Ivy cap research

Did not like the steep arc on the pattern I found.  Tore apart one of my old hats, similar to the tan one in my prior posting on hats and compared the pattern to the hat proportions I liked.

The brim pieces are 2 different sizes.  The first two pictures are of one piece.  Quite different.  The third picture shows the other piece that almost matches the pattern.


The side piece is VERY different.

And the corresponding changes in the top piece.  The back part is longer, to match the sharper and longer curve of the prior piece.

I’m planning on on creating a new pattern from the hat parts and build a second test hat.

I also found another free pattern at Urbandon.  The arc looks like it’s also pretty steep, but there is nice information on sizing, fabric and construction.

Ivy/Driver’s cap – 1st attempt

Finally found a pattern I liked for a Driving cap. (  Took some scrap cloth and threw one together.  I was not particularly precise, nor did I have fabric for a lining or a ribbon to finish the edge properly.  I’ll need to tweak it a bit, but here it is, compared to one of my standard day-to-day hats (tan, on right).  But even with it’s many flaws, I’m pleased for a practice attempt.


Charrie and I made place-mats, learning how to use a 3-hole foot and pigtail to add the yarn border.  The front is a cotton fabric, with the back a flannel to be nice to wood tables.  The original materials list called for a fleece or a felt, but I could not find any that went with the fabric chosen.  No, they are not made for Christmas, just happened to be two different colors of common fabric that we liked.  Our instructor, Karrie, was gracious to embroider the Celtic cat’s paw for us.  Charrie did the red, I did the green.



We were working on our place-mats, in class tonight, but we only had one pigtail to run the yarn through for the border.  Since I had some time, I decided to try making a coaster that I originally saw at my Mom’s house.  Hers are circular or square, but you can make any number of shapes.  Regular shapes are probably the best.  The only site I can find with instructions are at:

The ones my Mom made are a little different.  Starting at the bottom:

  1. One layer of fabric, face down.
  2. Layer of batting (optional)
  3. Layer of fabric, face up
  4. the 4 folder, over lapped pieces.

Sew a 1/4 inch seam around the outside.  Trim the corners  a bit to reduce the bulk, allowing it to lay flatter.  Turn inside out and press.

All pieces are the same size.  Mine are 6″, giving a 5.5″ coaster.   This one was my practice, now to make the ones I promised Charrie.  If you have it, I would use a walking foot, since there are so many layers.  Sorry for the glare, the surface I was using was a bit shiny.


Bottom, showing the overlap

Inverted, showing the layers, after sewing and trimming.

Close up of the end, showing the various layers.

My First Sewing Project: Messenger Bag

Charrie and I are taking some sewing classes. She wants to learn quilting, but thought starting with some basic sewing would not be a bad idea. I have a little sewing experiance, but could use quite a bit if instruction, myself.

Our first project is a messenger bag (See & Sew Pattern B4583). I just finished mine tonight. Charrie will be done in our next class on Tuesday. I’ll post some pictures of her’s when its done.

Front, with flap closed

Front, flap open.


Back, flap open


Better shot, showing pockets

Origami Architecture


  1. Get template:
  2. Tools:
    • #2 Xacto knife (or simular)
    • Cutting mat or scrap cardboard
    • Scoring tool
    • Metal ruler
    • light weight cardsock
  3. Print the template on to the cardstock. If you don’t want the crease lines or outlines to show in your final model, you can draw the image on to the paper with a pencil, allowing you to erase the lines when completed.
  4. Since I lost my ruler, I’ll be freehanding my cuts. I recommend using a ruler to keep the cut lines straight, especially the longer ones.
  5. Let’s get started!
  6. Cut out the 3 windows
  7. Cut the top, bottom and center of door. Score the “hinges” I’ve folded my doors up to allow you to see what the final result is. Don’t open the doors yet to keep them flat and out of your way.
  8. Cut the 2 long sides (top to bottom). I’ve tucked the knife through the 2 cuts to highlight them.
  9. Cut out the cross and the roof lines. The roof stops at the inner verticle lines. I’ve tucked a piece of white paper behind the cross and roof to highlight the worked area.
  10. Cut the inside edges of the stand-offs. Do not cut the small horizontal lines. The small verticle lines at the edge of the roof line are part of the stand-off. Look at the next picture and the final picture if you are not sure.
  11. Score the top and bottom creases of the standoffs. You will do this on the right and left side of the building
  12. Score the ground crease
  13. Score the bottom of the church.
  14. Carefully fold the creases to allow the church to pop forward.
  15. Fold the door outward a bit.
  16. Done!
  17. The real trick to designing OA, is figuring out where to put the stand-offs to allow the model to stand on it’s own. You can do multiple layers as well, but need to consider how deep each one has to be. If you want to design your own, start with something simple, and work your way up! Good luck!